HZR raises a good point. The site should display the content fine without CSS. This problem is related to how the markup is structured.
Due to the use of of CSS rollovers in links such as <a rel="nofollow" href="index.php" class="navmaincurrent"> </a>, things get a little difficult, but there's still a relatively semantic and valid workaround. IMO, ALA has been slipping a little as of late with things like this.
To fix this issue, put in an additional <a> link just after the one you use for the CSS rollover, inside the same list item. Set it up with a class that set's it's display to "none". Then you will still have some kind of text link avaliable in non CSS supporting devices (this will also help qualify your google rankings for those pages).
You might also want to consider how you link in your style sheets. That site is pure road kill in Ntescape 4.
Ok, onto the design.
Typography is a bit of a mess. The big cursive fonts aren't working for me at the moment. They look nice, but it looks more like something you've found on some other website that's been slapped onto an aging PHP Nuke template of something. I can't really put my finger on it, but something just isn't mixing in well. Perhaps some of the above suggestions will clear that up, but maybe you should be using sans fonts (like georgia) for the body content as well.
Whitespace is another issue as others have mentioned. All I have to add to their comments is to be generious with your margins and paddings. I also think you need to try and get away from the "boxed off" syndrome. It's definatly an improvment over the past designs in this regard, but with a layout like this, the sub titles (with the shadows) are really killing your design. I agree with the suggestion to drop the shadow and I'd also recommend you tear it out of that box as it's just an un-necessary redundancy, one which isn't terribly asthetically pleasing.
The custom underlines aren't working either. They come off looking like a design fad that's already worn out it's welcome. This may be just my personal opinion, but I really don't think their working. The colour of the underline doesn't fit in with the colour of the link text, and the pattern you've used has no relation to any other (or the complete lack of) patterned elements in your design. It just looks like it's out of context, which is probably why it feels like some outdated design fad.
The colours are interesting, but something it's really working there either. Orange and green should work well togther, better than what they seem to be doing here anyways. The black borders and text probably aren't doing you any favours. Infact, with such bright, saturated and light colours, I'd suggest you don't use *any* black in that design. Neither is the confingly similar heading & link colours, as well as the non-constent heading colours in the left hand column compare to the main content area.
Anyways, that's my 0.2
[This message has been edited by Cameron (edited 03-21-2004).]