Part IIa Control
So we've looked at two main ideas for converting RGB to greyscale. One is based on human perception and the other isn't. Even kind of mixed the two and saw some slightly bizarre behavior. But it's still all good.
I originally pulled Biker Chic out of retirement to talk about this whole thing. She makes a good candidate for this because the photo has green, blue, orange, and some purple/magenta. However, I've decided to put her back in her box. She got some fresh air and should be good for a while. Besides, I know you folks can find good photos for your own fiddlings.
What we are looking for is control over what final L that the various hues will be converted to. For example, you might want greens to be darker and blues to be lighter. Or you might want reds to be lighter and cyans to be darker. That is what we are going for.
Because of that, I think it's best to use B as in HSB. This way all of the hues are uniform and can be tweaked either way without much fuss. If you go with human perception, yellows will be brighter and you just might want yellows to be darker, which means a bigger tug on the tweaks. Know what I mean?
Before we got more into that, let's talk about contrast and Margulis.
From Steve we've heard the Margulis way of putting contrast into a final greyscale.
1. Ad-Layer > HSB using Sat=0%.
2. Between that and the photo, Ad-Layer > Curves and tweak the contrast in the separate R, G, and B channels.
Layers something like this:
3. Ad-Layer > HSB to desaturate
2. Ad-Layer > Curves to manually tweak contrast
1. Colour photo.
Very nice. My prefered method for converting flesh to grey.
Don't forget that Adjustment Layers have masks!
Let's say that Curves looks good for a person in the foreground, but the tweaks destroy the sky and clouds. Well, just mask it out and maybe give own tweaks with another Ad-Layer and some more masking action.
Love it!
Time to get back to converting H to L, but with Russell Brown's variation:
1. Ad-Layer > HSB using Sat=0.
2. Between that and the photo, use HSB, set blending mode to Colour, and tweak H and S to get what you want.
The advantage of this is that you are 'directly' converting hues to L (notice the quotes). The major bonus to this is that HSB has a drop-down for the major hues and sliders for range and fall-off. That is very nice.
So, with Brown you are selecting a range of hues and then tweaking to be lighter or darker. Or are you...? In a manner of speaking, yes. However, let's take a closer look at Brown's method. Believe me, there is lots of good stuff in there.
First, there is Colour mode. This is Hue + Sat (a mistake I made over at U2U). So, C = H + S.
What happens when you change the blending mode of HSB to Colour? Suddenly it is based on human perception and not B as in HSB. So far, not too bad.
Now, Brown shows tweaking H and S in the tweak HSB Ad-Layer. Since this is Colour and now working on human perception, moving H will affect final L as it gets desaturated through the top HSB Ad-Layer.
So, using just Hue to make a hues darker, shift to blue. Right? Try it and see what happens. A neat one to try is to make yellow darker by shifting it to blue. Or try making any hue lighter or darker just by shifting Hue to yellow or blue. You just might be surprised.
While the fall-off sliders are good, they are not good for this. For example, you can't shift blue and magenta to yellow in one swoop. When you shift a range, you shift the whole range. You will have to divide it up.
Which brings us to the Saturation slider.
Now, in HSB, S and B are *very* intimate. When you change one, more often than not you change the other. The rules for this depend which is greater. If you experiment with moving S and L, you should be able to see how this works. You should also be able to see how this is not so great for making hues darker or lighter because L is left alone in Brown's variation.
Why move H and S to get a final L?
Quite frankly, I don't get it. I understand the technical fallicies, but taking this tack seems so wrong even without that understanding.
If you want to convert H to L, then convert H to L, damnit.
My variation on Brown's variation:
Leave the HSB Ad-Layer in Normal mode.
Use the drop-down and fall-offs to select a range.
Use the L slider to lighten or darken the range.
If you want yellows lighter, then make them lighter.
If you want greens darker, then make them darker.
No sense in messing around with H and S.
Simple and direct. Extremely controllable and predictable.
Even makes use of the entire range selected using the fall-offs. That is, you can darken yellows and reds in one swoop.
Part IIb Fighting the Status Quo
In the past and recently, I've taken some flack for tearing apart Brown's variation. I honestly have no idea why. I suspect that it's because Brown is Brown and I'm just some guy. Even so, that doesn't make sense as a technique should stand or fall on it's own.
I've had to fight the status quo in the past with Displace. You folks were always with me, and I really appreciate it. You didn't see a lot of the ugliness that I had to put up with, but you always supported me when I came home.
Can't really say that I have the strength to go through that all over again.
You know, with the HSB stuff that I've been talking about recently, I was headed in this direction anyways. Kind of a strange coincidence. It's like I'm turning all of this techie stuff into a response to a flame war. But what I said should still stand without the bias.
Hell, I don't know. I'm just some guy.
I guess the best I can do is pass it on to you and keep on truckin'.
That's enough of that.
Any questions, comments, or niggles?