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WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-19-2004 00:29

I was inspired by the robot sig thread to actually work on drawing a robot. I have three stages to my drawing right now. My first is the sketch, the second the basic coloring of the robot, and now I am on step 3 which is shading and cleaning up. I wanted to share a little of what I am doing but I also wanted to find out how I should go about doing my shading. Right now I am still just messing around with the paint brush. I have found that using black and white on different on a light opacity doesn't work well on gimp because it only darken on different clicks. So I need to darken or lighten in one complete stoke and I can't take multiple strokes. I am no shading using a 100% opacity color and a soft brush.

The deal is that I am not getting the shading all that right and was looking for a discussion on how to achomplish this task and what I should be looking for. Please inform me on this, thanks.

p.s. I am doing this in The Gimp and not PS so if you could give general comments as opposed to PS only comments I would appreciate it.

Thanks!





Xdreamer.ch
Maniac (V) Inmate

From: Switzerland
Insane since: Mar 2001

posted posted 04-19-2004 13:03

Hasn't GIMP an burn/dodge tool as well? Sorry, never worked with
GIMP but I think that would be helpful if they're available in
GIMP too :-]

Btw: I like this robot

WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-19-2004 14:10

Yes, gimp is almost exactly like photoshop with the tools it has. The only difference is in the filters, I believe.

How would you use the dodge and burn tools to achieve better shadows?

WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-19-2004 14:40

I spent a little time with the dodge and burn tools. Wondering if you have any comments on it.

Thanks,



Arnitald
Bipolar (III) Inmate

From: Germany
Insane since: Apr 2004

posted posted 04-19-2004 17:23

From my experience in these cases, it is better to use separate layers for modelling (adding depth by highlights and shadows), rather than using the dodge and burn tools only. You simply draw with white color on one separate layer. Then you can adjust the opacity as you want. I use dodge tools for adding hotspots mostly, or well, you know when , but for areas of the same light intensity it is better to use separate layers imo. I hope you understood and that some of the more experienced people here support my theory.

DL-44
Maniac (V) Inmate

From: under the bed
Insane since: Feb 2000

posted posted 04-19-2004 17:50

Dodge and burn have their uses - very valid ones, and ones which they are good at.

Painting is not one of them.

The most important concept in shading/highlights that needs to be addressed in this image is that the darkest part of the shadow will not be the edge of a rond object, nor will the brightest part of the high light.

There is also a great deal that needs to goon here as far as texture, clarity of form, and consistency of light source.

Xdreamer.ch
Maniac (V) Inmate

From: Switzerland
Insane since: Mar 2001

posted posted 04-19-2004 18:34

I never said that dodge/burn are the best tools for shading. But in my opinion it is
great for achieving a good metal texture (add some noise though).
I love dodge/burn but it needs still some practise for a good effect. The image could
be faster damaged than you thought :-/

WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-19-2004 23:09

DL: What would you sugest that I do for texture? What is "clarity of form" and is there a way for me to make I am having consistancy for my light source?

Thanks for everyone help,

Ruski
Paranoid (IV) Inmate

From:
Insane since: Jul 2002

posted posted 04-19-2004 23:48

believe it or not...there are no magic tricks or tools that gonna make your painting look better, or give it texture...

take an average air brush, lower the opacity and flow...

use simple color palete and paint...keep in mind values and where the light is comming from..

for exemple take a loom at this guy...

he only uses airbrush on low opacity and simple colors...

click
click
clikc
click

(Edited by Ruski on 04-19-2004 15:08)

InI
Paranoid (IV) Mad Scientist

From: Somewhere over the rainbow
Insane since: Mar 2001

posted posted 04-20-2004 00:27

The poster has demanded we remove all his contributions, less he takes legal action.
We have done so.
Now Tyberius Prime expects him to start complaining that we removed his 'free speech' since this message will replace all of his posts, past and future.
Don't follow his example - seek real life help first.

WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-20-2004 02:20

Thanks for all the pointers! I am going to take this one back to step one and rework it. Hopefully it will be much better for the effort! Thanks all!

WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-20-2004 02:55



Worked out a new version with perspective. Now I am going to try to color it.

Could you explain a little more what you mean by low opacity. Do I set the brush to say 25% opacity and then just go with it? Or is there a special technique for this? I am confused by the need for lower opacity.

Thanks again,

DL-44
Maniac (V) Inmate

From: under the bed
Insane since: Feb 2000

posted posted 04-20-2004 03:23
quote:
Do I set the brush to say 25% opacity and then just go with it?



Essentially, yes.

Don't know anything about Gimp, but I will usually set the opacity at an appropriate level (of course, "appropriate" could be a 200 page conversation ), and will set the blending mode for the brush at either mutiply, screen, hard light, etc...

This allows for something closer to realistic color blending.

The actual opacity you use is really a matter of taste. I use a very low opacity in most cases, sometimes as low as 5-10%. The important thing really is that you change the opacity to fit the task - don't paint the whole thing at the same setting...

warjournal
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From:
Insane since: Aug 2000

posted posted 04-20-2004 05:35

Today is suppossed to be the last day, but I haven't seen any sign of a server name change. Although, don't be surprised if this turns into a red x.



That's my speed painting for the week. A whopping 30 minutes.
In case you couldn't tell, I kind of rushed the colour and it just plain sucks.
Mostly hard brush with varying opacity and just a tad of smudge to help get the transition started in a few places.

Alevice
Paranoid (IV) Inmate

From: Mexico
Insane since: Dec 2002

posted posted 04-20-2004 06:20

The problem lies in the usage of smudge in there. it doesnt really soften the transition, and often screws any sense of texture. Limit yourself with extreme usage of brushes. Dodge and burn can help for a few touch ups, but scecially the texture should be done with brushing. And honestly, its the only way (non-filtered at least) that makes it look convincing.

Remember aiming for contrast when doing metal.

A point to note is that smudge hapens to be good for non-solid texture, such as smoke or fire.

__________________________________


Sexy Demoness cel

InI
Paranoid (IV) Mad Scientist

From: Somewhere over the rainbow
Insane since: Mar 2001

posted posted 04-20-2004 08:27

The poster has demanded we remove all his contributions, less he takes legal action.
We have done so.
Now Tyberius Prime expects him to start complaining that we removed his 'free speech' since this message will replace all of his posts, past and future.
Don't follow his example - seek real life help first.

InI
Paranoid (IV) Mad Scientist

From: Somewhere over the rainbow
Insane since: Mar 2001

posted posted 04-20-2004 08:49

The poster has demanded we remove all his contributions, less he takes legal action.
We have done so.
Now Tyberius Prime expects him to start complaining that we removed his 'free speech' since this message will replace all of his posts, past and future.
Don't follow his example - seek real life help first.

Xdreamer.ch
Maniac (V) Inmate

From: Switzerland
Insane since: Mar 2001

posted posted 04-20-2004 11:27

I gave it a try too. Just with dodge/burn no airbrush. My first attempt on a "big"
image like that (need them espacially just for my weblayouts/skins)



PSD

Amerasu
Paranoid (IV) Inmate

From:
Insane since: Jun 2002

posted posted 04-20-2004 15:09

WarMage, I wrote a low opacity tutorial once, here: http://amerasu.randomleft.com/tuts/tut_opacity.html

It may or may not help

I like your little robot guy so far, he looks great!

Amerasu |

WarMage
Maniac (V) Mad Scientist

From: Rochester, New York, USA
Insane since: May 2000

posted posted 04-20-2004 15:15

Thanks for the tutorial! I am on my way to read it now.

Everyone you all rock, thanks a whole lot for all your help!

DL-44
Maniac (V) Inmate

From: under the bed
Insane since: Feb 2000

posted posted 04-20-2004 19:05

The important thing in Warjournal's image is that you have now an object as opposed to a colored 2D drawing.

It has weight and substance, whatever the flaws may be.

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